Hi from China, our last two weeks in China, 

                                                  我们过去两个星期在中国

 We have just finished travelling through China, and so have left the Silk Road as it branched off from Kunming and one branch headed southwest towards India.

beautiful parks - Black Dragon Pool

If we hadn’t had to change our route from through Tibet, Nepal and India (due to not being able to visit Tibet in our time frame – as the border was closed) we would have really missed a large part of China that we have really enjoyed. Although we are still eating lots of rice and noodles. We did see a change in the people and architecture of the buildings as we travelled across the country. Near Kyrgy was lots of Russian, then more Chinese, then the Mongolian of Tibet as we neared the provincial border and then eastern Chinese. Someone told us there are over 400 different dialects in China and of course many different cultures.

     Now that we are located more central and to the south in China the landscape is changing. Sometimes it almost feels tropical with it’s high humidity and lush surroundings. Almost all the big rivers are very brown. We don’t see many people out on the lakes or along the rivers and creeks playing in the water in the hot sunshine. Haven’t seen a campground yet – don’t know if it’s just not the right place or they just don’t camp. We were told they like their hotels but for us, we have found the beds really firm, to the point of, maybe the floor is actually softer.

     As we drove into Xi’an I couldn’t believe this western style city. There was a Wal-Mart, KFC, McDonald’s, Subway, Pizza Hut, Dunkin Donuts etc. I’ll be honest though, the KFC tasted mighty good after all our noodles of late. The food was certainly not cheap and it was far more than we paid for our Chinese food but the place was packed with customers. When we enter a big city with Calypso our truck, it is difficult to blend in with the traffic to find our hotel. The police don’t even let trucks into town with the traffic so we become a ‘bus’, much to the disgust of Jim our driver who cringes every time someone calls Calypso a bus. Our guide, George jumps ship, and gets a taxi which we follow the best we can with the truck. This saves driving around and around looking for our destination with bumper to bumper cars and scooters. Some of the cities we’ve stayed in have over 6 million people which certainly adds to our driving time.

    In Xi’an we went to see the Terracotta Warriors (life size pottery figures that originally were brightly painted – guarding the Tomb of Qin Shi Huangdi). In 1974, a farmer was digging a hole for a new well when he shoveled up some pottery shards – thinking that he had dug into an old grave he wasn’t going to mention it. He believed it might bring him bad carma. After looking at the pottery closer he realized it was really old and did report it to the officials. Then they started excavating the area and they believe there will be +/- 7000 soldiers and archers plus horses and wagons – all standing in formation. Archeologists have been coming from around the world to help with the dig! They have left 2 sites for future digs as they can’t handle all they have found so far. There is also rumors of high mercury counts in the area, and pools of mercury underground which would scare me.



Russ with a warrior

                                                                  warriors in the pit

    While in such a western city we went out looking for running shoes. Russell had no troubles but the female runners only went up to size 7 not my 8 ½ (I didn’t think my feet were very big for my height). They kept taking me over to the male shoes! Then I thought I needed a new bra – but too little and too much stuffing!!! (I felt like a turkey with it all out front when I tried one on)

   Next city was Chengdu to see the Panda Reserve. Feeding time was at 0830 and the panda’s would be more active then – so off we went. The pandas eat 35 -65 lbs. of bamboo daily but only digest 20% of that. Therefore they end up lazing around to conserve energy and digest the food they have eaten. They usual live alone for +/- 25 years. The female has just a brief window for breeding every spring and is very choosy about whom she mates with. The male is known to have a small penis for his size and so therefore at the reserve they have been showing panda porn to get everyone in the right mood. AIl in the name of the game if you want to have baby pandas. The babies are only 3 ½ oz. when born and the mom holds them the first 90 days – not even going for food. The reserve was quite an awesome spot and we saw the red pandas as well which I had never seen before.

Panda resting in a tree

red panda ( looks more like a raccoon)

     Also in Chengdu we went to a camera shopping centre. There were at least 20 -30 Canon shops and started our bargaining process and came out with a beaut. I’m sure we still paid a white man price but… It was supposed to be for our birthdays but I haven’t held that camera yet!!! On my 60^th B-Day everyone was full of good wishes and lots of prezzies. I had an awesome day and topped it off going to the Chinese Opera (read more like a variety show). They had entertainers doing singing, shadow imagery, different instruments i.e. a banjo with 2 strings, a trumpet looking thing that wounded like birds, string puppet and fire eating dragon show where they changed the color of their outfits and faces with the blink of a fan. Haven’t a clue how that was done but sure was spectacular. We all thoroughly enjoyed the show.

elaborate costumes

                                                      faces and clothing change colour!!

    As I said on the last update the Chinese are into their road making – big time!. Now we are seeing a whole new dimension. The bridges curve around all the hills and valleys and if they can’t go around it they tunnel through it. One stretch we must have drove through 40 kms of tunnels, let alone the miles of bridges. Whole cities pop up to produce concrete for the construction of that section of road. They do skirt some beautiful gorges. Although a lot of the creeks and rivers are basically dry as the water is diverted for irrigation and the cities. The tunnels entrances are all artistically designed ie carving of trees or landscape etc. when we aren’t on the new expressways we are checking it out from the old roadways. We try to figure out where it will pop out of the mountain side next or what valley it will come out of.

                                              one of the many bridges being built

                                                       road side statues continue

  On a piece of the old road we came upon an accident (can’t believe we haven’t run into many more) – the traffic was at a total standstill and not going anywhere fast. The cars all lined up 5 abreast on each side of the accident so they can be first through, beeping their horns, not even thinking that no one will get through at that rate. So all the guys hopped out of the truck and did some traffic control and we actually moved on fairly quickly and the traffic was sorted out. Now there was a policeman on the scene and he didn’t take over from us  - he just watched!!! The local police are pretty much ignored. They have so many different levels of police you learn who has the authority and toe the line when necessary.

     We drove through the mining area of this part of this province of China. There was a mine on pretty well every hillside. This is the largest titanium area in the world but also a ton of coal and opals as well. The area was found in 1965 – and the city developed accordingly up to a 1 ½ million people in this steel/mining town.

                                             Great Buddha total height 71m,  feet 8m, nose 6m
                                         built in 713 AD to safe guard passage of boats on river

                                                                       quite a sight

   Next we hit the real tourist area of Lijiang (supposedly the most tourist visited city in the world – not sure by whose calculations) and Dali. From Dali we had a tour of some Bai villages. Did the usual tea ceremonies

                                                  elaborate tea ceremony

 and a couple of markets

                                                     frogs ready for the dinner table

                                                                multicoloured corn

                                                                  neat design of fish for sale

                                                         blue eggs and red ones

  – saw the chicken from live, to being killed, dunked in boiling water and being de-feathered in the washing machine tub to being butchered in cuts you want. Talk about fresh!!!  The Chinese, when preparing a chicken dish just chop all the chicken bones and all, into the pot - to the point that I am off of chicken till the next country. It only took about 8 minutes per bird. On the tour we stopped for lunch and I asked for a bathroom or WC. I was taken up a road and down an alley to the local hospital for the washroom!! And if the bathroom was anything to go by I am glad I didn’t need the hospital. Next stop was the cormorant fishing. They send the cormorant off the boat, beating the water with a big stick to make the fish rise or get the cormorants interest and then when the bird finds a fish they use a fish net to scoop up the bird. Of course the bird doesn’t want to give it up – some even swallowed the fish but the fisherman still got them out of his mouth. The birds are supposed to have a belt or clip to stop them from actually eating the bigger fish. Found the whole fishing demonstration quite interesting.

birds of a feather

A China festival – Sister’s Meal Festival: in April/May amid 3 days of drinking and dancing – the teenage girls choose their husbands. The man offers a package of sticky rice which the girl will return with either a pair of chopstiks buried in the rice for YES or chillies for NO. Maybe that is why we have so many chillies in our food, they are left over from those girls accepting the proposals.

Bamboo: culm (stem) used for pipes, hats, furniture, mats, cooking utensils, the shoots of certain types are cooked and eaten. The shoots can grow 2 feet per day until they are full height. They only flower every few decades or just once a century after which they die back. Bamboo has become part of the religion, philosophy and culture of the Chinese. Meaning devotion, righteousness – the segments on its straight stem symbolize the steps along the straight path to enlightenment and its strength, grace, and longevity have made the subject of a great many poems and paintings.

In China with the heat most men roll up their t-shirts to cool off –now I could understand it if they had a 6 pack for abs but not a beer belly!!

Road signs – don’t drive when fire overtaking prohibition

On a hill – slow down, black spot

Driving now phone while

Toilet – piss here

We don’t mind leaving China as we are beginning to feel like movie stars. We would sit down for a meal and people would come and sit beside us, while we were eating and have their picture taken with us and them in it. Maybe it was because of how we use chop sticks!!!! Tourists are certainly an oddity here and many of the local people have not travelled out of the country so we are the next best photo. Also for the next country we can use the internet without being blocked or censored although some have said that Vietnam we will be back with big brother watching us. We enter into Vietnam after Laos so will soon see and you might not here from us again for a few weeks.

• Next stop Laos and using forks again

Hi from China or as they say in Chinese 来自中国的问候

Hi from China    来自中国的问候

those long roads plays a guy out

Driving into China from Kyrgyzstan was at least 120 to 150 kms border crossing. I believe the largest no- man’s land between countries and with what the roads were like, it almost took all day just getting over the border. All our gear had to come off the truck and get X-rayed.  So when they  found a banana on the truck we were actually fined a minimal amount(we thought it was just meat and vegetable matter we couldn’t bring in). No worries we said as they didn’t confiscate the beer or alcohol .We have now left the red Russian bear behind for the China Dragon. Our first stop was Kashgar – a fairly large city – very vibrant with motor scooters everywhere. What surprised us they were all electric and drive anywhere.  As you walk down the sidewalks they try to pass you and as you didn’t even hear them, one had to be quite careful!! I had to quit talking so much so I wouldn’t get run over!!!

old town of Kashgar, Musslim section

still have statues of the caravaners

Kashgar market where they are making pasta

can't wait to try this at home - might take practice - anyone up for it??

Kashgar market buying spices

Keith trying on a fur hat at the market

     Calypso needed a new windshield and a MOT testing to make sure we were road worthy in China. But we had a restaurant at the hotel called Johnny’s that had wifi. You’ll never guess where we all went for supper the first night. After quite a spell without it – we were all busy checking it out.

Jim servicing Calypso so that we don't have any breakdowns

      Next we were off to Turpan – the second lowest city in the world. Of course it was very hot again. The area is well known for growing grapes but mainly for making raisins here. I just didn’t know how many types of raisins there are!  Also another main crop is melons. They have many more types than we do back home and they all taste great. In fact China has grown a watermelon the size of a loonie!!  Can’t wash your face with one that small.

grape drying buildings made out of red clay tile

Jiaohe - an ancient village made of mud just outside Turpan

    For the first many days we travelled through desert and then very dry rocky area. If a little irrigation was done – the terrain changed drastically and it was amazing what they could grow. The roads are being built quickly – four lane highways everywhere, with dividers and big fence along side. This meant it was pretty tricky to pull off and camp or do washroom breaks.

Desert everywhere except when you have water !

 As it was July 1st for us and July 4^th for Emily, we got together and did a games night. The number of games actually got shortened drastically as the roads were so bad we didn’t camp till late. The game we played – spin around a shovel with your head down on the handle 5 times then run and pick up 3 peas with a spoon and run back to our team mates with the peas was a blast!! But our fellow travelers didn’t fair too well on the quiz of Canadian and American trivia – and yet they don’t understand that we don’t always get theirs!! Back to the roads we were driving the one section of 100 kms of bare bones dirt just scraped up to start a road – the dust was so bad one couldn’t see out the windshield and there was 4 trucks- all passing each other – coming towards us – horns blaring – I closed my eyes – didn’t feel any bumps so it must have all got sorted out – don’t know where they all went as the track was only two lanes wide if that. The infrastructure is taking a bit to catch up ie. The gas stations are there with some having a restaurant and small store but the washrooms aren’t. 

                                                     statues in the middle of a road

 The one I was grossed out the most  - had behind the restaurant a 2 foot ledge that was full of human waste all plopped up along the whole ledge!!!  YUCK!!!!!  Car / truck / bus horns are blaring constantly – we think it’s a case of who has the loudest horn, instead of who has the biggest …. . The horns are also used instead of blinkers or if they are just saying hi to us ( we are still quite the novelty)and they are also waving away plus they are also used instead of brakes!!! Can’t believe we haven’t seen more accidents.

    Some of the roadside cafes that we have been trying out are surprisingly clean in the kitchen although not so much at the table area. But as they all proudly show off their kitchen you get a good feeling about the place. Then we point at what we want in our soup or noodle dish. What is surprising is that there are hardly any rice dishes so far. That must come in another area of China. One restaurant I just pointed at a the Chinese word on the menu and said that one – the owner shook his finger and pointed at one lower down on the page and basically said this one – which tasted great but I kinda wonder what I would have gotten!

town square at night



     We stopped in a city called Dunhuang where our beds were sheets of plywood on top of the mattress – we all got out our camping matts so that we could get to sleep. But here is where we visited the Caves of a 1000 Buddha’s. Not all of them are open but we did visit at least 10. Many were sculptured in the 10th & 11^th century. All the painting is still the original color – the deep blue coming from Afghanistan. They are actually monitoring them quite closely with CO2 monitors checking for damage as there are so many visitors.

                                     each cave (room) is number and has some 'Buddha' carving

we weren't aloud to take any pictures inside

    Next we stopped in Jia Yu Guan, the west end of the Great Wall of China. This part isn’t as wide as near Beijing but it sure was spectacular non the less. It was to be our last camp night and we were all ready to enjoy ourselves as we think we are really going to miss this part of the trip when we only have hotels. We hiked up the wall to some look- out towers after supper to catch the sunset with our glass of wine. It was just so neat we didn’t want to come down. But when we finally did, maybe a little while after many others, there were police cars with their lights flashing away and our mates were busy packing up the tents!. They had decided in their great wisdom that no we couldn’t camp there after all and escorted us to a 4 star hotel. With lots of bartering we were settled in the room by midnight.  The next day we visited a new museum, just finished in the last year - dedicated to the Great Wall and I must say it was very impressive. Visiting the wall and the museum turned out to be one of the highlights of the trip so far.

                                                            the great wall in this section

great wall walkers

                                                 a look-out tower on the 'Wall' above the plains

Inside a newly opened museum of the great wall

We'll say bye for now but will give you the next installment of our saga from the rest of China in about two weeks and for the Spot followers hopefully we will continue posting everynight. We are staying in more hotels now and getting trickier in some places to remember to pull the spot out (so bear with us)

Kyrgy

Shalom from Kyrgyzstan or Kyrgy (locals say)

travelling over the local roads

    Our first stop was Bishkek the capitol of Kyrgy. Here we stayed in a hotel that actually had lawn, a pool and a deck with tables and chairs, plus internet!!! Therefore as soon as we arrived we knew it was appe ’ time on the deck. We are still finding it hard to pick up what we think are typical appe’s  but it is fun looking. Have to admit every once in awhile the idea of a regular supermarket where you can find what we are used to and know the price on the packet does have its appeal. But whatever we find we have fun and the company is good.

    Next we headed up to Diety  Orgus – a mountainous area that is guarded by seven bulls (red clay type hills). All of a sudden after all our heat we were back in pants and sweaters – what a nice change! Here we were up in the mountains – camped beside a nice river – believe me when I say body freeze on getting washed up!!!  We managed to get a couple days of hiking, walking the ridge and therefore great views.

Seven Bulls protecting the valley

hiking in Diety Orgus mountains

picnicing on the steep slope side with Keith and Sandra

 But because it was summer solstice while we were up here we had a party to celebrate Christmas in summer. Russell and Colin even cut down a small tree and we decorated it with whatever was at hand. We cut up red and green peppers, hung pine cones with red thread, red bracelets, candy and even had red ribbon left over from our dress in red party. Our tree looked gorgeous. We all became a secret Santa – buying silly presents, drinking champagne, having BBQ  lamb and playing a few games. Fun was had by all.   

decorating the tree with truck mates

  

     There was a whole groupings of yurts in the meadows. They move up here for 5 -6 months of the summer to mind the herds of cows, horses (I can’t believe how many were up here), sheep and goats. These yurts look like great big mushrooms sitting in the field of mountain flowers. They are made from water proof felt wrapped around frames. Some of the yurts are very decorative while others quite plain. While talking to some of the locals they introduced us to mare’s milk. It has been fermented like beer. I have never tasted anything like it in my life!!!! The look on Russell’s face as he took a big swig of it was priceless!! It tasted like sour vinegar!! The next time different locals offered it to us – Russell still gave it a sniff and just shuddered. And I thought he was tough!

one of the many Yurts !

   Next we were off to Song Kol - an alpine lake that was surrounded by a huge valley/plateau 30 -50 miles in circumference and then tall mountains surrounding us. Here again the valley had yurts with the animals everywhere. Never figured out how they chose where to camp or was it first come, first to set up. We ended up adopting a couple of Kyrgy kids here as they found us quite novel. Their parents and other locals came over to play Ulan Tuk. It’s a national Kyrgy game but might not hit the Olympics for a while yet. There are 2 people on the two teams all riding horses. It is called sheep/goat polo. First the sheep was slaughtered in front of us and then the legs and head removed.  A rider would take the goat way out in the field – once dropped the2 players would race out and pick up the goat  trying to butt out the other and then the other 2 would join in the foray. Then when one had it –he would race over and drop it onto a small square mat (target) and gain a point for his team.  The game was actually very physical and maneuvering the horses quite tricky as well. It was supposed to represent hunting from the horses. Once the men were tired the younger kids had a go and were they ever gutsy with their riding and game playing. We also had many families come out to watch. It was very entertaining and provided fun for the locals as well. When all was done the goat became that night’s meal!!

Goat polo or a tug-of-war ?

young players waiting their turn

our adopted Kyrgy kids playing with Sylvia's Christmas present that they took home 

    The Kyrgy”s  make their felt from the wool of the sheep. We went to a Woman’s Co-op where they demonstrated how it was done. First they whack the wool with long metal bars into small pieces,  then they place it on a straw rug – making a design with the colors as well. Next it is rolled up very tightly and hot water is poured over it. Next she grabbed us to dance on this long tube for an hour. Well we cut that a bit shorter but when it was unrolled and washed it looked pretty good for a bunch of westerners. When we were up in the mountains we saw many of the women  making it as well while the men were out with the animals or just sitting around as most men do here while the women work.

break dancing while flattening the felt

     Our next party night was a Bad Taste Night where you dressed accordingly and played some outside (ie pass the onion – still don’t like them raw) and inside games. Russell and I are improving our trivia status – in fact Russell’s team won and he also won the worst dressed man!!

bad taste dress party

Russell on a horse after too much 'mares milk'

Food: every country seems to have a different version of the Turkey Doner (BBQ meat sliced onto a bun) in Kyrgy  - it was the meat, fried coleslaw, cucumber, French fires with mayo and ketchup. It actually tasted really good.

Our guide actually tried to show us how to cook some traditional meals. As they tasted very good don’t be surprised if we try them out on you!

Next is China where blogging and facebook is taboo – should be interesting! First we have to get access to the blog sites.