Unraveling the Silk Road: Georgia

Gamarjobat from Georgia

As soon as we crossed into Georgia (easy border crossing this time) we realized how friendly the locals were. They keep trying out their English on us – Hi how are you? My name is …. . But pantomime is still the king of all languages though!!! Actually some of our fellow travellers have a picture book to help communicate –I think it is a great idea.

typical bush camp--waiting for supper

view out the tent door

The first day we were in for a long truck travel day. It had rained (read poured) all night and all morning. When we stopped for lunch at an old building site – which was a half demolished porch thing (like many left from the post soviet occupation) but it provided cover for the cook group to get everything ready. We were all kind of chilled and feeling grey ourselves. A group of locals arrived with their own homemade wine, brandy, chocolates and some cakes to share with us. As it happens it was a birthday day (for one of our fellow mates on the truck) so we shared the birthday cake with them. After all the booze quickly disappeared with little English, arms waving, pantomime skills used, etc the whole truck was in a much happier frame of mind and off we were down the road again.

without the english, it would be difficult to read where you are going

Next we drove 7 ½ hours and only covered 138 kms. on the bumpiest road yet! We were really wondering about our destination. We arrived in Mesati late at night, high in the mountains although we didn’t know that because of low cloud coverage. But once the blue sky appeared the next day you realized just what a beautiful area we were in. The snow capped mountains were 360 degrees around the village. The road is being redone in cement as I write but may take at least 10 years to complete because of snow and mud slides etc. but once done it will be the new tourist area – I predict the Banff of Georgia. There is a new ski hill, lots of hiking (the Sunshine girls would love it here) horseback riding etc. they have put in a new airport so one could bypass the road for now. We only had one day of hiking here and then it was back down the same road. My poor bum!!!

rock slide blocking road for a few hours

Russian 6X6 equipment

typical true Georgian style heavy equipment !!

how to repair a telephone post

We have been bush camping where ever we can. One night we had the police sitting outside our camp as they wanted us to be safe and not have any hazzles. Tourism in Georgia’s is a high priority right now. The next morning they guided us out thru town to the highway. Later we got a little confused going through a city and got guided again by the local police but this time with the lights going. Wonder what the locals thought?

After a few bush camps it is always nice to hit the hotel which we did in Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia, therefore nice hot showers. The first night we headed out for supper with another couple Keith and Sandra. We were trying the local fare when we saw on the menu Khashi – boiled stomach, hooves and belly with garlic. We figured the garlic wouldn’t be strong enough to help that meal and tried others instead. They eat lots of meat, salty cheese, mushrooms with or without vegetables in dumplings here plus a lot of bread with every meal. Have found lots of takeaway meals sold thru little cubby hole windows everywhere. While in Tbilisi 15 of us had to applying for our Azerbaijan visas – but they have just changed their requirements to start June 01 and told us we couldn’t get them without waiting 2 weeks. Jim (our driver) and Zaza (our guide in Georgia) spent many hours and days doing their best to get us through. The problem is Azerbaijan is quite wealthy in gas and oil and don’t care if we drive through or not. Finally after all of us going and standing outside the embassy and a few higher ups seeing us we were finally granted them but only after two more visits from Jim. If it didn’t happen we were probably going to have to fly over the country – but no worries. Hats off to the two of them!!

There seem to be lots of beggers in the streets. They keep touching our arm till you look at them but with a simple ‘no’ they are usually gone.

On our next mountainous visit up the Military Highway to Russia (basically a truck route now – but very scenic). We camped about 20 kms from the Russian border (I was ready to go for a visit but gather the visas are really tricky to get). We did hike up the mountain towards Russia but never made it there or we wouldn’t be writing this if we did. As we did this hike we visited the most scenic church Tsminda sameta a 14^th century church. It was located on the crest of the hill with a great view.

the most scenic church in Georgia

boot skiing after visiting the church

Driving through this mountain pass was a quite well known Russian get away area with ski hill. But since the Russians left the area in 1989 as in many places, all of their buildings were just emptied and gutted or just quit building the hotels, apartment blocks leaving empty shells etc making the area look quite desolate and forsaken. Georgia is now spending lots of money on rebuilding and tourism. We wish them luck.

We generate a lot of local interest as we drive through and stop at different local markets. I think we are probably their top sales for the day as we restock the truck with food daily. Still difficult finding the food – still can’t find baking powder for Russell to make pancakes. I can’t tell you how many stores, bazaars, corner somethings we have looked in! Plus I don’t know how to pantomime that one!!! It took 6 shops and half a day just to find some hard candies and then it seemed they were everywhere. Our cook groups are giving some good competition but sometimes arriving at the campsite late at night is tricky. One meal we bought frozen dumplings but couldn’t eat them that night so tried to cook them the next one – but now they were thawed and a mess but after reshaping and playing a little they turned out great. Or the predinner wine helped a little!! We have stayed in 2 home stays which has been great. They ;have been like B&B’s. Some even sell their own bulk wine. Georgia was the first known place in history to make wine. They make an amber wine which is white wine that sits in the primary for 1 – 6 months with the skins and stems. It seems this wine has 6 -7 times the antioxidents of red wine! See I am getting healthier all the time!