in Vietnamese Xin chào
Our introduction to Vietnam ended up being on a sleeper bus. Two things happened, one, we had to leave our truck, calypso in Laos, because one cannot drive a right hand drive vehicle in Vietnam or Cambodia. The second was we ended up not going to the National Park for 2 nights before we left Laos because of very wet roads so ended up spending one more night in Vientiane and then took this sleeper bus. Therefore our visa and our day of arrival would match. Now we had seen these sleeper buses all through China and we were kinda excited about it. So very optimistically we jumped onboard, but we ended up at the back of the bus. We got the last 3 top seats/sleepers sharing with Emily our fellow American. We thought we would kinda of party on the bus as it took off at 7:30 pm – then the lights were out at 8:00 pm. (…but we’re not really tired yet!) Now our sleepers were next to the bathroom – did I mention they were RIGHT next door to the bathroom – am not sure when they were last cleaned let alone emptied!!! Using good judgment I decided not to drink much water on this part of the trip! When one of us rolled over – all three of us had to roll over but we were also taller and bigger than the Vietnamese and we just didn’t fit in their little cubicle. Can’t you just see us, knees bent up over our ears etc. But the worst was we ended up stopping just before the border to Laos as the border wasn’t open yet. Unbeknown to us, the bus driver has a bed in the hotel for the 4 hours and leaves us on the bus. But no driver - no key - no air con and therefore we were sweating like stuck pigs in 30 minutes. When we couldn’t take anymore we got up to be outside where it was slightly cooler. Another 10 buses had arrived and all those people were also wondering what in the heck we were all doing – locals and the tourists alike! Anyway we were at the border nice and early, had our $60 visas with us and then got charged a $1 stamping fee for the passport - go figure! Russell and I vowed no more sleeper buses for us.
view up the aisle
now picture me inbetween Russell and Emily
Our first stop was a town called Vinh – not much to see and do but did have great beer sold in draught form – 6 of us found that right quick – but had a heck of a time finding a restaurant anywhere nearby. Next stop being Hanoi and I have to say we stayed in the Backpackers Hanoi hostel and wow it’s the best one I have ever stayed in. They even had fish and chips and hamburgers – some say they were delicious.
trying Vietnamese Nacho's - a little different than ours back home
We did try the hamburgers on the deck with free beer and met a lot of neat people. The hostel is in the old towne area and was a lot of fun to explore. But we are definitely back in the noisy beeping of horns like China. I don’t think we realized how quiet Laos was until we left it. Crossing the street was a real challenge, you move slowly and the motorcycles and taxis flow around you. Went to a water puppet show that I am sure was very tricky to do and don’t quite know how they did it – but with the language barrier it did lose a little as we couldn’t follow the story.
Then we did a two day boat trip to Ha Long bay and what a treat. The area was beautiful with a thousand or more islands to navigate around, a national heritage area. The ocean was clean and very swimmable. I was the second to jump off the roof and as I was expecting cooler water what a pleasant surprise. We did some kayaking and meandering through the caves, a little bit of wine on the deck – talking with friends, watching the stars etc. What more could one ask for. Oh yah, I didn’t mention food – it was awesome as well.
Ha Long Bay with all it's islands
sunset
Then the crew did another overnight sleeper bus to Hue but 6 of us opted for the overnight train instead. While we were playing cards, drinking wine and having cheese and crackers we got a text message from the crew – the worst ever sleeper bus!! Think we made the right decision! While in Hue we went out to the DMZ zone. Sure glad we did as we learnt a lot and saw a lot. It really put the War in Nam in a bit better perspective. Toured the tunnels too - 300 up to 500 at times were hiding here for up to 6 years. Longest time was 5 days/nights at a time without day light – usually they came out at night to farm and fish. There were 17 babies born in the tunnels. There is ventilation and water wells in there as well. Can’t believe how well built they were. The bottom tunnels were 30 meters deep, with two other shallower systems. With Agent Orange sprayed everywhere they are still having birth defects 3 generations later. There are 72 graveyards, where many are buried as unknown soldiers. There a couple of psychics in Hanoi that are trying to match up families with their loved ones, according to our guide, they have had some success.
in the tunnels at DMZ
whole families in one cubby hole
graveyards with graves marked unknown soldiers
Still trying to get the bus situation right as we rode by day bus ( no place to put our packsacks) to a city called Hoi An – leg room was very cramped but we are taller than the Vietnamese – right? This area is well known for the tailoring and also making shoes. Of course we all got on the bandwagon and ordered stuff but it was addictive as well, before you knew it one ordered another dress or top. I even got new custom made capri’s and tops.( they copied what I had made for our previous trip) What a treat -something new to wear! Couldn’t find any at home before we left as it was still early spring
Then the motorbike brigade came out – four bikes this time touring through the country side. Absolutely love having the freedom to go where you want to – even if you haven’t a clue where that is. At one red light, a local also on a bike told us to visit her little town to see Marble mtn. So off we went and ended up taking an elevator up to the top of a limestone rock mountain (hill) and saw many pagodas there as well as caves with some Buddha’s in them. They were in great shape and the cleanest yet. We then drove on to Da Nang for lunch, once one of the biggest American air-force bases in the far east. When it was closed down, the economy hit rock bottom as expected. Beautiful beach there called China Beach. On the way back to Hoi An, we ended up with a great view of the ocean and therefore it definitely was the next stop. The water was really warm and nobody was there except for us. Can’t believe how the coastline is building up though – might not leave much for the locals to enjoy. Found a neat restaurant with balcony over the river which had to die for meals. It had a saying on a billboard outside SLOW TO COOK, SLOW TO EAT, LONG TO LIVE which suited us to a T. What an excellent way to finish off a great day.
Colin, Wendy, Russell, Denis, Sally, Sandra and Keith
limestone cave at Marble Mtn
we are getting smarter as we decided not to brave riding over this bridge
sunset at the beach before heading back closer to home for our supper
Another bus to another place. This bus had no air con and it is really hot and humid still. We were all quite pleased when we pulled over at a gas station and he crawled under the bus – we are thinking he is going to fix the air con, right – nope – fixing the horn as it wasn’t beeping loud enough!! In fact it did sound whimpy! – but they can’t drive without a horn which they use constantly. We arrived at a place called Jungle Beach. We knew it was owned by a French Canadian so we were ready to like it before we even got there. Then we met the owner the first night and then the question, where in Canada are you from, where in BC – well it is a small world, he moved from Quebec to Wycliffe. Who would have figured ey! He has owned this beach front for the last 10 years and is building it up. The beach is a great place to chill out and relax. The phosphorescence happens every night in the ocean water with the din flagellates lighting up Russell’s chest hairs. He was quite brilliant! There was enough room on the beach that I’m sure we all went skinny dipping at least once. (guess I have to speak for ourselves) Went for a walk up to the local waterfall and they forgot to put the water in it and we were there in the rainy season too.
Denis and Stephen drinking the booze out of buckets - each tent group came up with a skit and name for their concoction to be enjoyed at the beach using your own straw - some were great some were different!!!
fresh chickens? at least 50 of them
must have sold all his wares
if no bike or motorbike you'll see the females carrying these all over town
Driving to Ho Chi Minh (south Vietnamese still call it Saigon) we saw fields of dragon fruit all ripening. They had hundreds of crates for sale of course, for a lot cheaper than we can buy them at home. Arriving in the city, we realized with the beeping and business that Saigon does have over 4 million motorbikes. Sidewalks are not made for walking – they are the parking lots and crosswalks are there in name only. The motorbikes carry everything from bakery to pipes, animals, baskets, food well … anything you can think of big or small. We toured the War Ruminants Museum and now got the N. Vietnamese side or rather the winner’s side and their story. Felt really different for us as we always just hear the American side.
Russell trying out a AKAK gun on display
amazing machinery still intact
Had a tour of the Mekong Delta area watching them making rice paper, noodles and crisps, coconut candy and had a Vietnamese girl in her outfit row us up some canals – then I tried to row our boat – it was harder than it looked as I headed straight for the mangroves on the side of the canal. My fellow passengers asked me to retire – the nerve! We also boated past the floating market where all the fruits and vegetables are sold. The boats advertize their produce by placing a sample on their mast. All in all made for a nice day out of the city.
making the edible rice paper
Vietnamese rowing the boat
haven't quite got the stance or a good sense of direction
Russell's back into snakes but this python weighs about 200 lbs.
Food for thought:
There is a difference between knowledge and wisdom.
Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit.
Wisdom is knowing not to put the tomato in a fruit salad.
Have been on malaria pills for a wee while but haven’t seen any mozzies. The locals certainly don’t take any medication. But my kids keep telling me to play it safe so we are still on them.
celebration float
see you all again in Cambodia
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